Congratulations, we finally made it to Kitchen Remodel: Part 3 – Execution, so now it’s time to get our hands dirty!

I know…the last two steps included a lot of planning details and information to digest, but successful projects require detailed planning to set the stage for success. Think of it as risk management. How much risk are you willing to assume? Its all about the details, and the planning time spent up front will now pave the way for a smooth execution! So stick with me, because the fun is about to start!

Grab your gloves, tools, and your mask..because the dust is about to fly! Lets get to work on demolition of this old kitchen!


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Final Farmhouse Kitchen Design Layout





We are ready to start, but it’s time to pause for one last sanity check, to make sure that all of our project details are fully covered.






  • Demolition
  • Post-Demolition assessment
  • Carpentry/Framing
  • Kitchen Cabinets/Final Measurements
  • HVAC (because importance of exact range hood location)
  • Electrical (because of 10 new circuits)
  • Plumbing (only addition is pot filler, ice maker/gas line move)
  • Fire caulking/blocking
  • Rough Inspection





  • Insulation and Inspection
  • Old Trim Strip/Sand
  • Plaster/Drywall Repair
  • Floor Strip/Sand/Repair
  • Trim Stain/Finish
  • Paint
  • Install Kitchen Cabinets
  • Doors & Surrounds
  • Wallpaper (ceiling)





  • Farmhouse Sink
  • Kitchen Countertops
  • Range Hood w/ Remote Blower – Install
  • Subway Tile Backsplash
  • Final Trades: Electrical, HVAC, Plumbing (cabinet lighting, fixtures, etc)
  • Cleaning
  • Flooring Stain/Finish/Dry time
  • Install Appliances
  • Final Inspection







  • Everything must go! Well…almost everything…
  • Cabinets and countertops.
  • Flooring and sub-flooring – Remember, the original maple is hiding down there somewhere!
  • Old sink, refrigerator, microwave, stove, and recirculating range hood.
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    Gas Relocate & Shut-off

    Safety First! Before we get started, we want to perform a few safety precautions.

    • Make sure electricity is turned off for circuits we will be exposed to.
    • Make sure MAIN gas shut-off to range/stove is turned off, and verify!
      • Know where the shut-offs are: Plan A – inside – basement, etc. Plan B outside at the city meter. Know this!
    • Make sure you know where the MAIN water shut-offs are: Plan A inside – basement, etc. Plan B outside at the city meter. Know this!
    • Have a HEPA Vac (Click here for more info) on hand to clean up any mess/hazardous material
    • Box fan in window blowing out, while other window is open (to create cross ventilation of the room.
    • Always ensure proper ventilation in the work area.
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Zip Wall Kit  
















Now it’s time to assess the situation after everything is disassembled, and inspected. There will usually be hidden damage, needed repairs and/or something that will need to be brought up to code (to pass inspection).  Here’s what we found, and we’ll update the master plan accordingly:

  • We found that we need to do some minor carpentry work to properly fix the wall under the window (window was shortened on the inside only). Here is a shot from the outside. We opted to keep the exterior dimensions original, and keep the interior window sill above the counter height.

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  • Found the existing circuits too messy, and some were even aluminum wire. We’ll stick with our worst case plan to run 10 new circuits.
  • We decided to clean up the water supply lines to the sink and add proper shut-offs.
  • We performed a more thorough inspection of the floor, and while in pretty bad shape, we are going to try to save the original maple flooring. The floor tile will now be removed from the scope of work.
  • Next, we’ll mark up the walls (blue tape) to locate wall studs, points of interest like electrical boxes, and rough area of the cabinets and countertops. This will help give us scale now the room is empty, and it will help assist in layout tweaks along the way.






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    Time to cut open the wall and reclaim some of the coat closet for the new pantry.
    • UH OH!!! There are water supply pipes (hot/cold) in that wall cavity, running to the upstairs bath. We’ll have to reroute them!!!
  • Now to reframe the pantry opening.



  • We’ll dress up the protruding trim at the lower portion of the sink window, so the wall is plum and level.
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    Old Window Sill Was Raised When Old Bedroom Became A Kitchen – At least the original trim is intact, just shortened.


  • Next, we are cutting out the damaged plaster (leaving the lath), but only where the backsplash will be installed or where the plaster is crumbling.  We’ll install 1/4″ hardibacker to ensure a smooth, level surface for the backsplash, that brings it flush with the original plaster wall.


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Prepping the Backslpash Base


  • Then we cut the lath to open up the wall cavity (only to the top of range hood location) that is closest to the center of the short wall that the range/stove will be located on.


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Range Hood Duct Will be Installed Here


  • After plumbing and electrical, we apply the hardibacker for the subway tile backsplash.






  • Now that the kitchen is cleared out, and rough carpentry is complete, your cabinetmaker will want to take final measurements so the cabinets can be finished.
  • Remember, that cabinets are a long lead-time item!
  • Farmhouse sink and range hood are on site with cabinetmaker to ensure exact, custom fit.
  • Expectation Management: Plan a few site visits to the cabinetmaker (if possible) as the cabinets are being made. This way you can see how they are progressing, see if any issues arise, or if any alterations to the design or style need to be made.

Perrin & Rowe Bridge Faucet                                                   Z-Line Range Hood

Shaws Original 30″ Farmhouse Sink







  • Range Hood with remote blower (in basement)
    • Near silent operation in the kitchen area.
  • Next, at the bottom of the wall cavity utilized for the range hood duct, we cut an access hole through the floor to the basement (where the remote blower unit will be located).
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Range Hood Duct – From the Kitchen to Basement


  • Range hood duct is “roughed in” and installed in the wall opening.
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Range Hood Duct Installed



  • Everything on the range/stove wall will be located off the centerline of the range hood air duct – range hood (in cabinet), range placement, kitchen cabinets, and countertops.
  • See the Range Hood Final Installation here





  • We mapped out the location of the new kitchen cabinets up to the ceiling, and therefore moved the location of the ceiling light 12″ toward the refrigerator – The “new” center of the room.  We also located the pendent light over the sink area.
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Ceiling Light Locations – Over Sink  and Kitchen Center


  • Relocated the kitchen light switch from the new pantry side (right), to the left side of the kitchen entry/opening.
  • Be aware of major appliance requirements (dimensions and install locations)


  • Rough in of 10 new electrical circuits in our 200A panel in the basement.
    • #1 & #2:  Small-Appliance Circuits, 20A, GFCI Breaker
      • Countertop appliances / plug-ins
    • #3:  Range/Stove, 30A
      • Dual fuel (gas top/elec. ovens).
    • #4 & #5:  Microwave, Microwave (alternate) 20A, GFCI
      • One for the pantry, alternate over frige cabinet.
    • #6:  Garbage Disposal, 20A, GFCI
      • Inside sink cabinet.
    • #7:  Dishwasher, 20A, GFCI
      • Inside sink cabinet.
    • #8:  Range Hood – 20A
      • Inside vent hood cabinet.
    • #9:  Basic Lighting Circuit, 20A
      • Overhead lights on one switch.
      • Cabinet/task lights on one switch.
    • #10:  Refrigerator: 20A





  • Roughed-in the new water service for the pot filler (with shut-off from the basement).
  • Roughed -n new water supply lines for kitchen sink.
  • Relocated the gas line for the new dual-fuel range (gas cooktop/electric ovens).






  • Caulk and/or spray foam with fire-rated material (red/orange), in accordance with local codes.
  • Seal any/all penetrations through wall and/or ceiling cavities.






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  • Its time for the first inspection on the “roughed-in” work.
  • Schedule city inspection about  a week out. Not too far out, that you may slip scheduled inspection, but not too close, as they can be booked up 1-2 weeks during peak building times. This varies from city to city, so you may want to call ahead and establish communication.
  • Some city inspections can be booked entirely online. This may allow you to book an inspection day, and add a few additional “back-up” days/times to reduce schedule slip. This will reduce schedule risk. Just cancel the ones you don’t need after you pass inspection.
  • Always have a back-up plan, as inspections can cause major delays.
  • Some cities will allow you to schedule “consultations” with building inspectors. This way they can give you a little”expectation management” so you don’t get surprised on inspection day, fail inspection, and have to reschedule…all at the expense of your’s and your contractor’s schedules.
  • Make sure to have all permits on hand and displayed, for city officials to sign off on.


Stay tuned for next steps… Farmhouse Kitchen Remodel: Part 3 – Execution, Phase II where we continue the amazing transformation of this old kitchen!

Need more kitchen ideas, or want to see the full list of items used on our farmhouse kitchen remodel?     


Visit the MOHF Kitchen Resource Page.

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