Updated: 08/08/2026
First of all, if you are reading this and looking at the above picture, maybe you can relate to exterior paint failure! The feeling of “this is going to be expensive”. The feeling of frustration. What went wrong? Or just maybe, why is this happening…AGAIN? (especially if your paint is less than 5 years old). Sound familiar?
If so, you will definitely want to read this to the end! It's no joke, exterior painting is very expensive and labor intensive to apply. Most exterior paint pros agree that a good paint job is 2/3 prep and 1/3 paint application. Therefore, it is critical to get it right the first time. This will prevent rework and increased costs down the line.
Also, I am not a fan of “planned obsolescence” and I am not a painter by trade (but I have worked alongside many), so the goal here is to lay out a plan that extends the life of your exterior paint job based on this experience.
The result? You won’t be calling your painter every 2-4 years for a “repaint. In my neighborhood I see way too many exterior paint jobs failing after only a few years!
New paint after two years
Do you want to know the 9 Critical Steps to ensure a quality exterior paint job that will last? Keep reading, as we’ll be covering the following:
1) Common Exterior Paint Problems
2) Causes of Exterior Paint Failure
3) Exterior Paint Resources
4) Exterior Paint Preparation – 9 Critical Steps
5) Exterior Paint Do’s and Dont's
…just like a good exterior paint…My Old House”Fix” has you covered!
Let’s dive in!
Common Exterior Paint Problems
Like anything else - Fix it early
While issues such as light “crazing” (small jagged interconnected break patterns), “solvent blistering”, “wrinkling”, and “intercoat peeling” (from improper cleaning/prep between coats) of exterior paint are generally considered minor, both can usually be remedied by a good sanding and repaint. Additionally, these failures aren’t usually tied to moisture issues. The focus of this blog will be on the more serious exterior paint failures, which usually require total paint removal.
Did You Know: When paint builds up to a thickness of approximately 1/16-1/8″ (approximately 16 to 30 layers), one or more extra coats of paint may be enough to trigger cracking and peeling in limited or even widespread areas of the building’s surface. This results because excessively thick paint is less able to withstand the shrinkage or pull of an additional coat as it dries. – National Park Service
Another good reference for historic homes, classes of failures (I, II, III), and a ton of additional resources can be found in the National Park Service – Preservation Brief 10
Exterior Paint Problems
There are many types of exterior paint defects and exterior paint problems. The most common types of paint failures, which usually require total paint removal, are listed below.
- Peeling Paint – We’ve all seen it! Small pieces, up to large sheets of “expensive” exterior paint falling off your house!
Peeling exterior paint
- Alligatoring and Cracked Paint – The advanced stages of “crazing” where the bond between exterior paint layers has been broken, moisture is able to penetrate, and eventually causes cracks down to the woodsubstrate (causing wood swelling and more cracking).
- Rust and Discoloration – Caused from old nail heads rusting.
Rust
Causes of Exterior Paint Failure
Exterior Paint Problems and Solutions
According to This Old House, the most common reason for paint failure is moisture! By exterior OR interior means, moisture can creep into your walls, siding, and paint in many ways. This leads to wood rot and/or paint failure.
As a result, the list is long for sources of excess moisture: overflowing gutters, poor drainage, ice dams, missing caulk, improper flashing on roofs and windows, rain splatter, improper exhaust fans in humid locations (think bathrooms, basement, crawl spaces, and kitchens), improper attic ventilation, improper soffit venting, and the list goes on.
Attic check
CAUTION: There is no sense in repainting without dealing with moisture problems FIRST. The follow-on coats of paint will only fail, just like the current paint.
1) Peeling Paint – Generally caused from poor paint adhesion (improper surface cleaning/prep/pressure washing), moisture issues (interior/exterior) mentioned above, and from painting over bare wood while it is still wet. Moisture collects behind the paint and breaks adhesion from the bottom layer.
Most noteworthy, this happened to us, as a result from a heavy summer rain. The upper surface of the wood tested dry, yet the core was not! Consequently, the trapped moisture caused the exterior paint to fail almost immediately - at nail head locations the paint "popped".
The Solution: Remedy all current and future sources of moisture (interior/exterior). Never...NEVER use a pressure washer to wash the surface or for paint removal. The water is blown deep into the wood and can stay wet for weeks, not to mention leaving severe marks in the wood/grain. Ensure the wood is completely dry before continuing on to prime and paint! You can check the wood with a Moisture Meter – there are two types 1) pin (sharp pins stick in wood). This type measures a very shallow depth of just the pin – why we thought our wood was dry. 2) The pin-less type (link above), and reads up to 1.6 inches deep!
2) Alligatoring and Cracked Paint – Caused by allowing advanced “crazing” to occur to the point that it causes total paint failure. In advanced stages, the exterior paint will also start to “flake” as it fails.
The Solution: Correct “crazing” while it is minor. Repair by preventing it from advancing to major paint failure (cracking, alligatoring). Thoroughly sand the surface and repaint (to reseal the surface). The minor cracks may still show through after sanding, but the surface will be sealed and protected.
3) Rust and Discoloration – Water and moisture penetrates the paint layers, and/or nails work loose or “pop” out. The result is cracked paint and rusted nails.
The Solution: 1) Remove the old, loose nails really fast with a Nail Puller and replace with stainless steel, or corrosion-resistant nails. 2) If the nails are still holding tight, sand the nail heads if rusty, countersink, prime, caulk/patch nail holes, sand smooth, and repaint.
Finally, there are many additional examples and causes for exterior paint failures – from blistering to incompatible paint types due to ongoing paint chemical formulations. If your issue or problem wasn’t on the list above, check out the exterior paint resources below.
Exterior Paint Resources
Pictorial Dictionary of Type/Cause of Paint Failure
Sherwin-Williams Problem Solver
This Old House Paint Discussion Board
Top Ten Paint Problems and How to Fix Them
The Best Time to Paint Your House
Exterior Paint Preparation
As mentioned above, most exterior paint pros agree that a good paint job is 2/3 prep and 1/3 paint application. Just like the foundation of a house, this is THE PREP is the most important step to ensure a solid foundation for your paint! If your paint has failed, however, be weary of a painter that will only “scrape as needed“. This will only knock off the loose paint, and the existing problems will remain. It may cost more up front to strip your old paint down to the wood, but probably cheaper in the long run – paint lasting 15-20+ years vs having to repaint every 2-4 years due to ongoing peeling!
Exterior Painting Preparation – 9 Critical Steps for Success!
So, you have questions - how many coats of paint? What type of paint? What gets caulked? The following steps are critical to the longevity of your exterior paint job! Here are the proper steps to strip (to bare wood) and paint a house’s exterior.
STEP 1) Set nails and/or use a Nail Puller to remove the old, lose nails, then re-nail with 2″ Stainless Steel Siding Nails. Note, if you are able to pull the old nails out and re-nail with new, this is the best option to prevent "nail pops" in the future. It's highly likely the nail and/or the hole is worn so bad that the nail will just back out again and destroy your new paint job.
STEP 2) Strip the siding/clapboard down to bare wood – we prefer using infrared paint strippers like the Speedheater™ 1100 and the scrapers listed here. The Speedheater™ Standard 1100 uses "infrared" technology that operates MUCH lower than a heat gun, therefore creates no harmful clouds of dust, or lead vaporization associated with heat guns. Speedheater operates at 280-450F and heat Guns operate at 800F+. THis is important because lead vaporizes at 752F.
You may recall that we also used the Speedheater™ to restore the trim on the interior of our house during our Vintage Kitchen Remodel
Speedheater™ Standard 1100 Kit
Speedheater™ Demo on Exterior Siding
Speedheater System Review: Easy Exterior Paint Removal
* * * FOR MORE INFO ON SPEEDHEATER PRODUCTS, GO TO OUR STORE
STEP 3) Sand with orbital sander that has dust collection with a HEPA vac – use 60 grit sandpaper to get off any remaining paint and debris, then 80 grit sandpaper to smooth out the deep sand scratches before priming to get a good "mechanical" bond. I use the Rigid HEPA Vac and Rigid orbital sander.
STEP 4) Perform all wood repairs – For cosmetic or rot repairs Abatron is an excellent epoxy for wood...I have found on other "big box" brands that hold up this well. Patch nail holes with window glazing putty (Sarco Putty Type M is the best) or caulk (Tower Tech) - stay away from spackle, MH Redi Patch, and other cheap wood fillers. It stays more flexible unlike wood epoxy made for other cosmetic wood repairs. For splits/cracks in the face of the board – re-pin/nail if possible and caulk the linear cracks. Why? Epoxy and standard patch materials will just crack again! Trust me! A good elastomeric caulk like Tower Tech is much more flexible for wood expansion/contraction.
Glue/Epoxy will re-crack V-Out/Glue repair Caulked repair – better for cracks
New wood patch New trim-prime all sides Finish with Epoxy
Glue/Pin / Caulk Patch nail holes after 1st prime
STEP 5) THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP! Bare Wood Pre-treatment:
- Option 1 - 50/50 mix of Flood Penetrol and Turpentine. Note - the turpentine smell is extremely strong and may even linger inside your homefor a few hours. It is also recommended to wear a respirator with charcoal filters due to the high VOCs/vapors.
- Option 2 - Clarabelle's Wood Preservative from Sutherland Welles Ltd. Note - the smell is much more pleasing (more citrus), less strong, and less VOCs than Option 1.
Brush on ONE wet, flooding coat of pre-treatment (>70°F) . Let it soak in. Wipe off the excess after 10 min. Then apply the first coat of primer ONLY once the pre-treatment is "tacky" and almost dry.
- Warm weather application - In warmer weather (80-90F) it will dry very fast (5-15 min), so once you prep a large area, it should be ready to prime.
- Cool weather application - In cooler fall weather and higher humidity, you may need to wait up to a few hours to prime.
Note: I cannot stress this enough! Your old wood is DRY, and needs a conditioner to help the primer “bite” deep. Dry wood will suck most of the oil right out of your primer, therefore leaving a mass of poorly adhered “solids”!
Clarabelle's Wood Preservative
NOTE: This step was Pioneered by preservationist John Leeke, from John Leeke’s Historic HomeWorks.
STEP 6) Once pre-treatment is tacky (5-15 min based on warmer conditions), prime as usual with 1 coat of long oil primer. Allow at least 24 hours dry time - longer if outside temps are cooler or humid.
STEP 7) Caulk all vertical gaps and joints – Caulk vertical joints between boards runs and trim. Vertical ONLY! If you don’t have flashing, its also OK to caulk the top of the window drip caps – where top window trim meets siding (pictured here). Use a good elastomeric caulk like Tower Tech.
STEP 8) Lighty scuff the sorface with 180 grit sandpaper or sanding sponge - this smooths any dust nibs and trash and helps with the mechanical bond of the primer between coats. Apply second coat of oil-based primer. Scuff between all paint coats to ensure good mechanical bond and keeps the surface super smooth and trash free for a nice finish.
STEP 9) And finally, once the 2 coats of primer are applied and dry - apply 2 coats of latex paint. REmember to scuff with 180 grit between coats to ensure good mechanical bond for the next coat.
Conclusion
In conclusion, at 12 years in, and we have no exterior paint peeling! Don’t get me wrong, the paint job isn’t 100% perfect…no paint job is. We do have a few problem spots as mentioned above from the rain storm, the south side (extreme sun) and where we performed case studies on crack repairs – caulk, glue, pin/nail, PC Woody epoxy, Ready-patch, etc. The key was in the prep, ensuring a good foundation for the paint, and the pre-treatment ensures a deep adhesion of the primer into the wood and helps to seal and preserve it.
Exterior Paint Application Tips
Should I pressure wash my house before painting? What about lead paint? Still a little weary on how to paint a house, right? The following exterior painting preparation tips, are a handy list of exterior house painting tips that will help you plan for success along the way, and clear up a few myths.
CAUTION: Be sure to practice “lead-safe” procedures from start to finish – drop cloths to catch paint chips, dust mask/respirator, HEPA vac, orbital sander (with dust collection), etc. For more equipment info read Learn More Here.
* NOTE – A “light” wash of the exterior is not needed when stripping all paint to the bare wood.
EXTERIOR PAINT - DO’s
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Practice “lead-safe” procedures from start to finish!
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Wear the correct Personal Protective Equipment (PPE). - Safety Glasses, Respirator (full face is best), work boots, Tyvec suit if heavy dust is created.
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Take enough time to prep the surface thoroughly before painting. Prep is key - DO NOT SKIMP ON THIS STEP.
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Do you have to wash a house before painting? If washing/cleaning the surface prior to painting/prep, wash “very gently” with pressure washer far from the wood surface or low flow water hose with sprayer. Don’t saturate the wood!
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Painting AFTER “light” power washing: Make sure wood is completely dry (not just the surface) before repairs, priming, and painting are performed. Check with a Moisture Meter.
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Ensure the wood to be repaired/painted is “sound”, in good condition after sanding, and not rotten.
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Replacing wood: Repairing “old growth” is best. If you need to replace any wood, prime all SIX sides prior to installing it. THis will help prevent rot and moisture migration.
No primer on edges
- Stripping Paint – Hand scrape to strip paint and/or use a minimally invasive method such as the Speedheater (infrared heat), to minimize lead paint vaporization, fire, and wood damage. If the paint has completepy failed, you must strip and sand back to “sound”/bare wood.
- Use a bare wood pre-treatment!
- Although slower, paint application by “brush” results in better adhesion than using a paint sprayer. Paint is forced into the wood grain better than via a light “spray” hitting the surface. A brush also cuts in around details and color changes (trim/siding) so much nicer than using tons of painters tape.
EXTERIOR PAINT - DON'T
- Disregard use of Personal Protective Equipment (PPE). Your lungs and eyes will thank you.
- Skimp on surface preparation. The paint job is only as good as the prep! Remember 2/3 prep and 1/3 application!
- Allow lead paint (dust, chips, flakes) to contaminate the surrounding environment inside or outside your home. Remove all work clothing prior to entering your car or house.
- Attempt to remove paint by “aggressive” pressure washing - this is very common, but a ver BAD idea for youe wood siding, possible water damage inside your walls, and contaminating your yard with lead paint chips that you wont to be able to clean up 100%.
Pressure washer damage!
- Attempt to remove paint using any type of media blasting.
- Repair, prime, or paint wood that is damp or wet.
- Make repairs, prime, or paint over wood that shows sign of graying, rot, or damage.
- Attempt to strip paint using any type drill/grinder operated rotary tools. Damage WILL occur. Yes, although sanding will fix, but MUCH wood will be removed in the process. Wood grain is linear NOT circular!!!
- Don’t prime dry, bare wood without a pre-treatment.
- Don’t apply paint via “spraying”. Its quicker for the painter, and QUICKER when he will need to return!
Lasted 2 years before peeling
I hope this technical blog serves as a guide and reference to help you achieve the best, and longest-lasting exterior paint job possible.
Best of luck, and keep on Fixing!
For more info visit: myoldhousefix.com
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